This Kalorama diva offers a unique setting, having taken up residence in a modest brick building. Walk through a set of doors to arrive at a cool marble bar, where sipping a cocktail is almost de rigueur. Up a few stairs and you're in the artwork-clad dining room, where elegance reigns over trend. A green skylight and "garden" oasis will have you feeling one with Mother Nature.Chef Frank Ruta's contemporary American menu shows a seasonal focus. Flaunting regional inspiration, the summer bean and peach salad makes a great start; while gnocchi with black trumpet mushrooms is an eternal favorite. The pastry program is strong, so dessert is a must. In fact, the gianduja ganache with cinnamon ice cream and blood orange gelée had us planning a return trip.