Unlike the typical bustling Chinese joint, Tou Zao offers the serenity and intimate service of a sushiya. But the single prix-fixe menu, featuring hot entrées and dim sum, is unmistakably Cantonese. The sautéed lobster with scallion trio has addictive aromas and springy flesh. Spring rolls and Cantonese puff pastries are made tableside, baked à la minute and served piping hot. Deft control of heat and remarkable wok hei are the hallmarks of the food here.