San Ysidro Ranch is a dreamy setting for this rustic stone "house," punctuated by lush gardens, creekside views, rough-hewn beams and a wood-burning fireplace. In the kitchen, hyper-local regional cooking rules, with many of the herbs, fruits and veggies harvested on the property. Arrive early to walk the grounds before your meal. There is exclusivity in the air, which seems to match the affluent diners and informed servers. Regulars aim for seats on the patio along with simpler bites, like the burger or crab cakes; while others may delve into such finer things as a three-course prix-fixe, starring hamachi sashimi, pan-roasted striped bass, and a signature Meyer-lemon tart.The list of global wines and liquors is far from rote and has everyone smitten.