Chef Mark Liberman may draw his culinary inspiration from some of the greatest kitchens in the world, but rest assured that his food isn't about fireworks. Instead, this kitchen team is focused on the unpretentious charms of great seasonal produce and a well-handled wood grill.Mägo's carte is heavy on casual small plates, such as ratatouille on toasted zucchini bread or crispy soft-shell crab with peaches and plums. And yet, there are fun surprises, too, like the kimchi-style sungold tomatoes that crown a pile of pasta alla chitarra. The nightly “for the table” meat option, like rabbit saddle or grilled tri-tip, is a surefire winner. Save room for such deliciously rustic desserts as corn pudding with blueberries and lime granita.