Push past the heavy iron doors to this modern restaurant tucked at the base of a classic townhouse. Supple leather, brass touches and various shades of beige comprise the contemporary, elegant space, where a buzzy bar and a welcoming dining room await. Chef Christophe Bellanca's dishes echo a simple elegance, evidenced by plump white asparagus on a fragrant bergamot-flavored crème with a refreshing herb vinaigrette and paper-thin slices of watermelon radish. French technique is married with Asian flavors in a dish of three blue prawns with genmaicha tuille, and braised black sea bass with shiitake chutney, razor clams and a turmeric emulsion is memorable. For a light ending, the orange soufflé is bright and fragrant, especially when served with green cardamom ice cream.