Masahiko Ashiki’s ‘Tenmasa kaiseki’ is an exposition of his gastronomic journey. The restaurant’s name was passed down from his parents’ tempura shop. The two-part menu begins with soup and appetiser, then moves on to tempura, learned from Ashiki’s father. Both sets of skills are on display in the tilefish fried with its scales still on: the rice in a Japanese tea broth with tempura uses basic soup stock; the tempura on a bed of rice is accompanied by a sauce inherited from Ashiki’s birthplace.