The South Korea-born chef is in love with the traditions of Tokyo and the skill and sophistication of the city’s artisans. From behind the counter he welcomes guests in a lusty voice, softening the mood with casual conversation. The chef varies his technique based on the characteristics of each fish, and seasons his sushi rice with red vinegar and salt. To encourage guests to sample as many toppings as possible, his omakase set menus are weighted heavily toward nigiri. He respects the teachings of his mentor while not skipping a single detail, and his sushi shows it.