The Hong Kong–born chef is affectionately known as ‘Tommy-san’. Tending his woks amid the intimate environment of an open kitchen, he charms his audience, sometimes trading jokes with them. The go-to dish, fried pasted chicken testes, is one of Tomi-san’s proudest dishes and one that keeps customers coming back. Pork, chicken and spiny lobster served on large plates win diners over by bringing the true pleasure of Chinese cooking and showing why a simultaneous start to the meal works.