Yoshihisa Akiyama strives for cuisine that gives voice to the individuality of his food producers. What fires his ambition are vegetables. He visits farmers across Japan, breathing in the mood of field and farm to inspire his ideas. O-hitashi (a boiled vegetable side dish) draws a portrait of the season; dishes like nikogori (jellied broth of meat or fish) unite the strengths of each ingredient. To watch him in action, ask to be seated at the 6th floor open kitchen; for a quiet ambience, request a table on the 7th floor.