The owner’s father was a sergeant major who learnt to make hand-rolled noodles in a village for military dependents. Noodles are still made like they were decades ago, retaining a lovely chew and dressed in sesame sauce with braised ground pork. Order a soft-poached egg on top; let the yolk run and stir the noodles before eating. Try also sour and spicy tofu with peanuts, or wontons in paper-thin skin tossed in a special sauce