Manning the grill at this yakitori shop, sister of Torisho Ishii, is the apprentice of Yoshitomo Ishii, the original shop’s owner-chef. Both the assembly of the skewers and the way they are grilled reflect Ishii’s tutelage, as does the practice of using chicken from different regions, primarily Kumamoto, Wakayama and Akita prefectures. The line-up ranges from perennial yakitori favourites to more unusual cuts such as chochin (chicken yolk sac) and chicken testes.