As cool and convivial as ever, this is the kind of place where both diners and staff seem perpetually at bliss. Inside, it all feels like a labor of love, thanks to the husband-and-wife team who make it their mission to bring fresh, rib-sticking food to this neighborhood. The space itself is warehouse-sized and rustic, with a copper bar, tulip-shaped pendant lights, booths that appear virtually suspended, and a flaming red-domed oven.However, it is the cooking that lures these crowds. To wit: a justifiably popular deboned and properly grilled whole fish stuffed with pea tendrils, fried herbs, and charred citrus. Desserts though are equally enticing, so save room for a rich and creamy chocolate budina tucked into a crisp tart with salted caramel.