For over 20 years, the brand has been a celebrated institution, both within and beyond Hunan. Its first outpost in Beijing greets diners with a bright red entrance, a visual clue to its hot fiery food. The must-try fried pork loin with crackling delivers fascinating textures and rich flavours. Rice paddy eel flown in from Hunan is slaughtered the same day before being stewed in shiso leaves and pickled mustard greens. The in-house preserved meat is also worth trying.